Grey Brows and Cosmetic Tattooing – everything you need to know

Posted by Racheal Keeley on

Let’s face it. At one point in time, we’re all going to struggle with those inevitable signs of aging, like wrinkles and grey hair. In the fight against grey hair, brow stylists have long relied on brow tint to cover the greys. However, in most cases, grey coverage with traditional brow tint is not a trustworthy process. Grey hair coverage can be very stubborn with tint, therefor some clients won’t get much of a result.

As many women are now embracing going grey and looking for ways to go grey gracefully, instead of trying to cover them, people are now looking to disguise their greys with tinting and semi-permanent makeup.

Ombre or microblading? which should you use?

When approaching a grey client’s service, you’ve got a few different techniques at your disposal. You’re probably already familiar with the difference between ombré and microblading, however, let’s quickly break it down. When working with a client whose goal is to cover the grey, your gut instinct may be to go for a darker pigment colour. But what if I told you there may be a better way to give the client the results that she’s after? Let’s take a look at grey coverage using cosmetic tattooing, the strengths and weaknesses, and when to transition from one to the other.

Should you use Microblading?

In terms of microblading, this is typically used for someone that was going grey and was losing the definition in their brows. Traditionally, we would mix a base colour using a lighter shade of brown pigment to blend hair strokes into the existing brow hair. This will give a much more natural look. The placement of the hair strokes is key to this process. Microblading artists should use an all-over microblading technique and customize the placement of each hair strokes to make sure that your client gets the best natural-looking result. Stylists will typically use a very natural pattern to give your client an ultra-realistic result.

Using microblading can be an effective way to disguise the client’s greys, but it’s not without limitations. The most important thing to understand about the microblading process with grey hair is it will not change the colour of the hair. If your client is expecting a full grey coverage, she will be disappointed with the results.

Even though you are using microblading to disguise the grey hair, your client may need a bit more maintenance and she may need to keep coming back in to tint the brown hair to match the cosmetic tattooing. Always have a thorough consultation before you start your treatment so you can help to manage your client’s expectations.

What about Ombre?

While microblading may make sense for some clients because of its natural result, there are also several reasons why you should consider ombré brows to reach their brow goals. To get started with blending ombré with grey hair, brow stylists should start by choosing a colour that’s going to match both the hair and the hair on the head. You can get cosmetic tattoo pigments that are grey and also ash brown. You can also opt to mix a combination of both to give them a great colour.

The best thing to do is to keep the brow shape as natural as possible. You don’t want to overcommit and give your client a very thick brow that’s not going to wear well over time. Slowly build up your ombré brows technique, and less is more to start. An older client will have thinner skin, therefore less rework is needed to get the final result.

The verdict

When it comes to grey coverage and cosmetic tattooing, microblading and ombré both have great benefits. Using a microblading technique will allow you to give your client back her hair growth pattern. As your client ages, she will lose… As we get older, our brows tend to thin out, so microblading will give the appearance of a natural eyebrow.

As a brow stylist, it’s so important to communicate with your clients so you can work together to find a solution to make her brow goals a reality. It’s totally fine for your client to stick with traditional tinting if she’s not ready to commit to a semi-permanent option. First and foremost, communicate. Make sure you have a thorough brow consultation with your client so you can better understand what the goals are and you can set realistic expectations on what they can achieve. Here this is where you can discuss their investment and their maintenance and if they’re going to need multiple sessions to get the desired effect.

The consultation

During your consultation, you should also investigate your client’s medical history. This is to avoid any mistakes throughout the process. For example, one of the most common mistakes you can make on an older client is not looking at the proper medications, then when you start your treatment, your client starts to bleed. This will give your client an undesirable, patchy result and also make their hair strokes blur.

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